Beijingya

From Blue Mondays to depressing Sunday evenings, central Brussels has abolished all dark days (except Thursdays, when this place is closed) ever since Beijingya took up service in the shadow of Saint Catherine’s church. After noticing chef Wu Yin Kuen behind his steamy storefront where lacquered ducks hang, seven sorrowful stomachs sat down around a table with Actiris-sponsored paper placemats, soon to be masked by a multitude of Hong-Kong-inspired treats, and more globally pan-Asian dishes, which tumbled out of the cuisine: indecent fried chicken wings stuffed with minced pork and vermicelli noodles; lustful duck tongues sautéed with chili; chewy chicken feet in a syrupy black bean sauce; crispy daikon radish cakes; silken tofu with century-eggs drizzled in chili oil; respectable “Peking-style” duck served with translucent wheat pancakes, hoisin sauce, spring onions and cucumber; a bubbling eggplant and minced beef stew; intensely spicy tripe; water spinach stir-fried with garlic, for a good conscience; before some greasy banana fritters. Looking for paradise? Take the first right after Rue Melsens. // Rosa Poulsard

FEELING THIRSTY? Jupiler (€3 for 330 ml) or Tsingtao (€4) beers, standard soft drinks (€2.50 to €3.50) and jasmine tea (€3).

PRICE: Starters €6-12, mains €13-18, rotisserie €15-19, stews €14.50 to €19, desserts €3-10.