Restaurant Hely (Nice)

© Antony Meneghini

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Wreaking havoc behind the harbor, Hely sure is no run-of-the-mill café. Run by ex-Parisian bistro owner François Robin, this spot boasts posters by Gianluca Cannizzo hung up on the unfinished walls, a well-stocked wine and fine foods corner and a white tiled bar, along with half a dozen tables waiting to be served dishes made by Argentine chef Juan Cruz Ricca. The day we went, we indulged in these balanced compositions: silky leeks vinaigrette with an added mozzarella twist, crispy shaved bresaola chips, pickled mustard seeds and hazelnut oil; flavorful marinated peppers stuffed with herring and feta; and a delicious rabbit and hazelnut pâté en croûte from Bobosse – all served family style… or as individual plates. What came next? Saucisson brioché (also from Bobosse) given a hot dog-style makeover, with fried onions, mustard and ketchup; a tortilla filled with juicy shredded pork, avocado and feta, all covered in a lemony yogurt sauce; and to round out the meal, caramelized clementines in yogurt, sprinkled with toasted buckwheat groats, buckwheat chips, almonds and a bergamot syrup. // Lenny Vega

FEELING THIRSTY? : A naturalist selection: La Levraudière, a muscadet produced by Bonnet-Huteau (€5 a glass), Cosmique, a Côtes-de-Gascogne white from the Domaine Capmartin (€24 a bottle), Les Magnes, a Provence red made by Pierre Michelland and Le Vin des Potes (€26) or a German pet’ nat’ from Brand Bros (€32).
PRICE: : À la carte €28-34.

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