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Despite a few renovations, the oh-so kitsch decor has hardly changed over the past 37 years. And behind the windows of this steadfast counter shop, the dishes are always the same too. On the outskirts of the diamond district, Hoffy’s is a living conservatory of Ashkenazi tradition, of which Benjamin Hoffman is the stubborn guardian. Here, Yiddish is spoken and eaten, without giving in to unauthentic fashions or feeling outdated. Chopped liver, stuffed eggplant, gefilte fish (carp quenelle), schnitzel… the house credo is clear: eat until you can’t eat anymore! For new converts, the “discovery” plate (turkey drumstick, rice, roasted vegetables, the broth of the day and kugel – a potato pancake) is the ideal entry point; and for hazy awakenings on a post-beer Sunday at lunchtime, opt for the cholent – a special Shabbat beef stew, slow-cooked and served with kugel and a piece of kishke sausage and matzot (unleavened bread). For dessert, there’s Apfelstrudel or traditional sweet lokshen kugel – a sort of noodle gratin, sweet like French toast. // Sugar Kowalczyk

FEELING THIRST? Lebanese wine from Mont Hermon served by the glass (€8) or by the bottle (€35).

PRICE: Appetizers €15-25, mains €26-60, discovery plate €35, desserts €8-10.

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