At the tail end of 2023, “broysters” Jo and Yann Crombet took the reins from Christophe Maleyran, a true institution in the Arcachon Basin whose oyster-farming dynasty dates back to 1848. Raised and patiently refined in the open waters off Pointe du Courbey, between the pull of the tides and the gentle currents of Île aux Oiseaux, Maleyran oysters show off their finest side here: sweet, plum and impeccably shaped, from the haute-couture spéciales to the jumbo Mama Leyran, matured by the sea for a full five years. Enjoy them plain or with a sharp squeeze of organic lemon, a drizzle of smoked herb oil or a hit of piment d’Espelette raspberry vinegar – a cult recipe passed down by Nathan Allard of La Turlutte in Cap-Ferret. To prolong the pleasure while gazing over the bay’s shimmering, silvery calm, nibble on aniseed snowball shrimp, whelks with mayonnaise or Kintoa pork charcuterie. · Edgar Funkel

FEELING THIRSTY? A white Graves from Château d’Archambeau or, more surprisingly, a Franche-Comté chardonnay from Serge Ballot (€4 a glass or €18 a bottle).

PRICE: Oysters €18-22 per dozen, shellfish €7-8, charcuterie €8.