Enveloped in the salty aroma of sea spray on Avenue de Montbrun, the Ivette wine shop has caught a school of uncompromising bottles in its nets – featuring natural, biodynamic and organic options, which are still a rarity in the region outside of Biarritz. Running this wood-clad space, Clarisse Bussiere (formerly the wine expert at De Puta Madre) and her faithful Arbane, an affectionate cocker spaniel, make for a cheeky duo. You can take one of the local cuvées or gems from further away to go or pop open in house (for a €5 corkage fee, in addition to the bottle price), including: a jurançon from the Château Lafitte (€33), an Ardèche chasselas from the Domaine de L’Iserand (€17), Joujou, a magnificent gamay from Le Clos Bateau (€21), or Le Gué Des Mûriers, a sharp Loire grolleau produced by Bruno Rochard (€15)…. Just want a glass of wine rather than a full bottle? Choose from a short but tempting selection (a Loire chardonnay from Antoine and Philippe Delaunay or Mon P’tit Pithon, a Roussillon by Olivier Pithon, both sold at €6 a glass), paired with simply delicious plates (€3.50 to €12): tender cecina, Breton oysters with seaweed butter (when they’re in season), garlicky olives and local cheeses, all served with excellent organic sourdough from the nearby Erroa bakery. // Rose Clince

THE BULLET-PROOF BOTTLE: Pangea, a Jura trousseau produced by Morgane Turlier (€40).