After a stint at the Komptoir des Amis, Mattin Larraburu is popping open bottles left and right inside his own personal lair (blonde hardwood floors, a tiled bar, immaculate shelves) at the heart of the pirate city. The Basque sommelier unveils nearly 200 natural wines from France and abroad: a Jura white from the Domaine de Souch (€13.50), Gan Cerdo, a Rioja red (€9), a Txakoli Urki (€10), a Saumur-Champginy from the Château de Villeneuve (€13)… Take them to go or open them in house, alongside some thoughtful snacks: mackerel rillettes, marinated anchovies, cheese and charcuterie plates, etc. // G.R. 

The bullet-proof bottle: Fontanasanta Manzoni, a Tridentine white from Elisabetta Foradori (€28).