The parking lot is always full at the Halles du 5 Cantons covered market, where sedans with chrome rims and dented vans are lined up side by side. At the very back, located between a pizza joint and an Asian take-away spot, Amélie Millet (ex-Septime in Paris) and Camille Maurette (ex-Amber in Hong Kong) brilliantly turn out their dishes of the day, which change daily. Enjoy them either at the bar or around one of the big tables. The day we went for lunch, the menu featured: carnal smoked carrots cozied up to a saffron-citrus yogurt; shelled mussels in a lively, spicy broth, with haricots verts and black rice; before a silky smooth chia seed pudding with homemade summer berry sorbet with tarragon and anise notes. // H.Z.

FEELING THIRSTY? A list of southern wines that still has room for expansion: an Aude Sauvignon or Chardonnay from Jeff Carrel (€4.50 a glass, €19 a bottle), a Bordeaux red from the Château de Bel (€20)…. Otherwise, there’s Arrobio d’Espelette beer (€4.50 for 330 ml).

PRICE: Menu €14-16 (during the week), plates €7-12 (Friday and Saturday evenings and Sunday lunch).