Thumbing its nose at old-fashioned pizza trucks, the Trallallà food truck recently finished its trip around Basque Country and parked outside of the Ruche Moderne, a gigantic industrial space that now houses a bunch of unfussy tables, a big tiled bar and a DJ booth. There, the Neapolitan Acunto oven spits out a dozen puffy pies, made on matured dough. Take the other night as an example, with our trip across Italy: an incredible Puglia pizza topped with fior di latte, Datterino tomatoes from Campania, burrata and taggiasche olives; a dashing Toscana with melted mozzarella, peeled tomatoes, Parma ham aged for 16 months and Parmigiano reggiano aged for 18 months, all sprinkled with arugula; a generous Emilia garnished with fior di latte, pistachio mortadella from Bologna, cream of ricotta and pistachios; before the unbeatable tiramisu with rich coffee flavor… // Gérard Roubeix

FEELING THIRSTY? Naturophile wines from the scoundrels at the Biarritz wine shops L’Artnoa and Retour Verre le Futur: a Gard Sangiovese from Le Mas du Chêne (€6 a glass), a Venetian white from Marco Barba (€27 a bottle), Primaversa, a pet’ nat’ from Monteversa (€32)… Along with beers (Italian Peroni, a Basque Izanaia brewed with bread – €4 and €5.50 for 330 ml) or an Italicus Sour (€10).
PRICE: Pizzas €9-15, desserts €6.