Krevette

The catch of the day is looking good for captain Ladeyn, the unstoppable lover of locavore eats! The restaurateur responsible for Bierbuik, Bloempot and L’Auberge du Vert Mont in and around Lille, as well as Klok in Brussels, has now cast his net over a former bistro near Jean-Baptiste-Lebas Park. Outfitted in stainless steel, this lively spot is led by chef Laure de Kervenoaël (ex-Mermoz and Sola in Paris), who never runs out of playful, seafood-forward ideas. The day we went for lunch, seated on one of the high bar stools, the lineup included: delicate leeks in a honey and parsley vinaigrette, topped with plump Zeeland mussels and toasted buckwheat; memorable binchotan-grilled cuttlefish served with smashed potatoes and a silky lobster bisque – or a stunning plate of pan-seared scallops, lounging on a bed of smoked raw cream and paired with roasted butternut squash and purslane; before an audacious yet no less enjoyable crème brûlée infused with fresh horseradish. Expect even more briny treats from 5:30pm onward (starting with oysters dressed in samphire vinegar and buckwheat), while hot dishes begin rolling out of the kitchen at 7pm – like the already-iconic Colbert-style red mullet or the photogenic breaded sardines. // Maude Zarella

FEELING THIRSTY? Natural wine that’s as taut as a fishing line, including a lovely Souvignier Gris orange wine (€8 a glass) or a Cabernet Regent red (€30), both from the Flemish winery Klein Rijselhoek (€8 a glass). Otherwise, there are sea-spray-misted cocktails like the Erika (squid ink, locally-made vodka, cucumber syrup and apple juice, €10) or house beers (lager, red or triple ale €5 for 250 ml).
PRICE: : Set menus and à la carte €25-30 (lunch), plates €9-35 (dinner).