It was once a barn in the middle of the village square. Today, thanks to Nestor and Casimir Turion, Sophie Barbier in the kitchen, Clara Philippe on desserts, Louise Bobby popping bottles and welcoming guests, and winemaker-sommelier Sébastien Chatillon of Domaine Ad Vinum, it’s been reborn a café-guinguette with vintage flair, an awning-covered terrace and an easygoing buzz that draws the whole village in. The cooking is local, seasonal and deeply comforting – take the dishes we devoured that lunchtime: first-rate celery remoulade lifted with pomegranate molasses; melting porchetta lounging in tomato-scented coco beans; fragrant veggie curry of cauliflower, butternut squash, potatoes and coconut milk; marinated mackerel sashimi with miso-infused butternut squash purée; and roasted duck leg with foraged mushrooms and pumpkin. Desserts ran from a chocolate-hazelnut tart to a moist apple and rhubarb frangipane cake, plus the cult verbena shortbread – already whispered about miles around. Evenings bring sourdough pizza made with local organic flour, while Sundays are all about brunch! · Megan Linar

FEELING THIRSTY? With Sébastien and Nestor (also the house brewer) on the team, expectations are easily met: Averse, the house wheat beer (€4), Falaise, a grenache-syrah blend from Ad Vinum (€5 a glass) or Loriot, a Loire sauvignon from Blandine Floch (€27 a bottle). Cocktails hold their own too, like the Sévaillant with pear-thyme liqueur, orange liqueur, ginger syrup and tonic (€8).

PRICE: Set menu €18-22 (lunch), mains €9-22, desserts €2-8.