In this old white stone silkworm farm (a sculpted wooden door, a big raftered dining room) in the land of rosé, Natalia Crozon sends out beautiful, delicious dishes made with carefully selected ingredients – fish from Le Grau-du-Roi, small farm-raised meats, vegetables from the Ferme La Reboule…. The night we went, seated on the terrace in the shade of the hundred-year-old cedar: a generous vitello tonnato or a tempting caponata; very tender veal hanger steak or golden meagre steak cooked in butter with small potatoes and butter-glazed vegetables; before an excellent apricot cake. The lunch menu might feature something like beef tongue in an herbed vinaigrette; stuffed cabbage; and a quince-orange compote with whipped cream for dessert. // J-N.M.

FEELING THIRSTY? Locally sourced naturalist wines: a Jajatoès white from Lori Haon (€5 a glass), a Tavel from the Château de Manissy (€27 a bottle), a Châteauneuf-du-pape from the Domaine de Villeneuve (€45)… As for the legendary Pfifferling, ask for it expressly, because it no longer features on the menu (a victim of its own success!).

PRICE: Menu €19 (weekday lunch), à la carte €31-48 (dinner).