At his new plaything that was given a remodel (with chic wooden décor) during France’s national lockdown, Mathieu Desmarest sticks to his motto: flatter local ingredients! The confident thirty-something tells tales of his native Provence on the plates, which are as energetic as a gust of the Mistral wind blowing through southern France. The day we went for lunch, we had an autumnal-wintery egg over a bed of milkcap mushrooms and bacon; a lovely beef and carrot tataki in an oxtail broth; and poached pear and hay ice cream draped in chocolate sauce, for a very tender finale to the meal. // Noël Flantier

FEELING THIRSTY? Pierre Baud relies on producers from the region: La P’tite Côte, a Côte-du-Rhône from the Domaine du Trapadis (€8 a glass), a striking Sauvignon from the Domaine Delacroix Kerhoas (€23 a bottle), a Beaumes-de-Venise from Alain Ignace (€32)…
PRICE: Set menus €35 (lunch, food and wine pairings €55) and €80 (food and wine pairings €120).