Down a cobbled street in Uccle, Antoine Salviat (ex-Brasserie Thoumieux in Paris), aka “the man behind the counter,” and his no-nonsense gem of a spot will immediately put you at ease amidst the red leather sofas, wood paneling and vintage black-and-white photos. In the kitchen, Jean-Pierre Gascoin (ex-Toucan and Chez Marie) delights left and right, with Parisian and Brussels classics. The day we went, the menu featured: delicious pig’s trotter croquettes with mustard; steak tartare prepared to order, fries cooked in beef fat, caper mayonnaise and cornichons; followed by the perfect finale, figs roasted in cognac, served warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. If you’re serious about sauces, wear your best shirt – the perfectly ironed white napkins have a small embroidered buttonhole! · Lina Megalinia

FEELING THIRSTY? A wine and champagne list with French influences: Les Abeilles, a Côtes-du-Rhône by Jean Luc Colombo (€8 a glass), La Bergerie, a red Anjou by La Cerisaie (€45 a bottle), Madiran from the Domaine Labranche Laffont (€34), and brut champagne from Émile Leclère (€15 a glass). There are also a few cocktails and mocktails (€8.50 to €12), Carlsberg (€4 for 250 ml) and Sint-Hubertus Tripel on tap (€5.50).

PRICE: Set menus €22.50 to €29 (weekday lunchtimes), snacks €12.50 to €18 (to share), starters €17.50 to €22, mains €19-36, desserts €10-12.