In a peaceful Neo-Breton farmhouse framed by granite and hydrangeas, smart but laid-back and barely half a nautical mile from the sea, young chef Félix Charlemagne (ex-Septime and Le Châteaubriand in Paris) has enlisted his father Luc to work the floor and wield the corkscrew. A restaurateur himself and a devotee of low-intervention wines, he joins his son in bringing Parisian bistro swagger to the sleepy Lézardrieux peninsula. Together, they playfully plunder Brittany’s larder (fish from Laurent Daniel, vegetables from Trédarzec and Lézardrieux, meat from Plouézec) turning it into seriously accomplished cooking with one foot in the tidal creeks and the other in charcuterie country, all delivered with the stripped-back serenity of a menhir. Nothing cold-blooded about this Lézard: the crew has the wind firmly in its sails! · Roland Tarte

Ate: Slow-cooked hake fillet with crisp shards of pig’s ear, coco de Paimpol beans and parsley brown butter; pressed pig’s head terrine with purslane and mustard sauce; and sticky toffee pudding pimped with dates and sheep’s milk fromage blanc, drenched in warm cognac caramel.

Price: Starters €14-€19, mains €28-€35, desserts €8-€12.