Localino

At first glance, it’s a localino (“small restaurant” in Italian) that’s as teeny tiny as it is pretty thanks to the striking decor by Rodaa Studio: fifties light fixtures, a chic marble island bar, black and white Kodak photos by Ron Galella on the walls… And upon closer inspection, you’ll discover a second dining room with more of a boudoir ambiance, where you can reenact scenes from Lady and the Tramp at lunch with some very slurpable pasta, or at dinner with mouthwatering small plates. Edoardo Cauda (ex-Solina) and his expressive hands sent out all of the following the night we went: first-rate charcuterie; thinly-sliced vitello tonnato; a grilled polenta tartine topped with oyster mushrooms (which were a little too salty for our taste); and some incredible homemade beef tortellini in a buttery sage and Parmesan sauce. The only shadow cast on this lovely scene? The plates were a little on the skimpy side, and the prices didn’t exactly reflect that… // Kelly Slatée 

FEELING THIRSTY? A maximalist half-Italian, half-French wine list, featuring options like a 2014 Ovello Riserva red from Produttori del Barbaresco (€25 a glass) or a 2017 white from Valentini (€50 a bottle), along with excellent Esperanza coffee, pulled from a vintage 1965 Faema E61 machine. 
PRICE: Set menus €22-28 (weekday lunch), antipasti €6-15, mains €19-27, desserts €3-11 (dinner and weekends).