Breizh Café Odéon
Bertrand Larcher, Fooding d’honneur Guide 2011
Adorning the white stone wall is a huge photo of Binic Harbor getting pummeled by a storm – not unlike the staff at Breizh Café Odéon when dealing with the crowds of hungry customers angling for a table on their incredible terrace! Why are they so eager, you ask? Because of Bertrand Larcher’s crêpes and galettes, who infuses these Breton classics with his memories of Tokyo (cream of tofu, wasabi mayo, wakame, yuzu, black sugar from Okinawa, soy powder…). Take the night we went, selected from 15 buckwheat galettes on the menu: a rock & roll Breizh roll with artichokes and wakame from Saint-Malo, organic scrambled eggs and Comté, all rolled up like a maki and cut into eight equal slices, and drizzled in a white tofu and sesame cream and a flash of spiced cider vinegar reduction; before, chosen from just as many sweet crepes, a gem of a recipe made up like a geisha with kinako soy powder, Okinawa black sugar caramel and matcha ice cream. Arigato kenavo! // D.C.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a massive hard cider collection – a mineral dry cider from the Ferme des Landes (€11.50 for a 500-ml jug), a sweet Carpe Diem cider from the Domaine de Kerveguen (€28 a bottle), etc., along with beautiful bottles of wine, like a 2016 red Chinon Vieilles Vignes from Philippe Alliet (€38 a bottle). As for buckwheat in liquid form, there’s a nice Telenn Du beer from the Lancelot brewery (€8.50 for 330 ml).
PRICE: Galettes €10.50-18.50. Crepes €5.80-14.50. Prix-fixe lunch option (except on weekends, until 3pm with a glass of hard cider included) €19.