Breizh Café Odéon
Breizh Café, volume 4! Bertrand Larcher (Fooding d’honneur 2011) – the prodigious crêpe-maker – has planted his Breton flag, known as the “Gwenn ha Du,” right in the center of the Odéon crossroads. It’s less of a tight squeeze than his address in the Marais, more luminous and spacious than his Comptoir in Saint-Malo, but most importantly, this 24-carat crêperie has really understood modern contemporary style: raw materials, Hermès-colored benches, copper suspension lamps and a sublime terrace with woven rattan chairs and low barstools. As for the food, in addition to his incredible complète galette prepared three ways (including a very rich Rive Gauche version, with truffled ham), the menu focuses on maki-style galette rolls, filled with tempting combos like onion confit and sliced sausage; Guémené andouille and Comté cheese; langoustines and zucchini; or even avocado, tofu, buckwheat, mixed greens and a sesame dressing. Make sure to try one of his clever dessert crêpes afterwards: butter and yuzu; buckwheat honey, buckwheat soufflé and buckwheat ice cream; kinako powder, kuromitsu and matcha ice cream…. And to drink, there’s plenty of choice, including twenty artisanal ciders, like the very drinkable Romillé from Loïc and Morgan Berthelot (€17.50) or the more mineral Cid’ de la Cuve from Etienne Leroy (€18.50), along with some beautiful wines (Sancerre from Riffault, Syrah from Cecillon, €6-7 a glass). Galettes €10.50 to €25, crêpes €5.80 to €14.50. // J.G.