Old wine in a new bottle? Thanks to a perfect handover between Thomas Chevrier, the neighborhood’s much loved former owner, and serial bistrotteur Florent Ciccoli (Jones, Café du Coin, Recoin), this outstanding Belleville haunt has taken off again at full speed! With the bistro vibes amped up more than ever before, the decibels rise over at the old zinc-plated bar and the tightly packed tables, as fans of pit-stop lunches munch on a crispy ham and garlic butter baguette sandwich or eat œuf mayo, unless you prefer chef Hugo Giudicelli’s (also from the aforementioned Café du Coin) playful grub. For us, the other lunchtime: the perfect combination of mussels, yellow zucchini rounds, juicy physalis and samphire in a creamy bisque; plump grilled gnocchi and roasted peppers dressed with a lovely eel cream; finishing with a miso crème brûlée that meant business. And come evening, there’s enough to keep the mood going: raw bok choy, labneh, salsa verde and almonds; corn and chili butter broth; pork belly, apple and hazelnut… Not bad at all, for the same old, brand new Orillon! // Henriette Ma

FEELING THIRSTY? A bit of everything: Ten Belles espresso (€1 at the bar, €2 table service), Archipel kombucha (€5), Deck & Donohue draft (pilsner, IPA, white… €2.90 for a half) and natural wines – Alsatian pinot noir and gris from Léo Dirringer (€6 a glass), a Catalan skin-contact muscat from Celler 9+ (€37 a bottle), or a trousseau from Jérôme Arnoux (€40).

PRICE: Set menu €19-22 (weekday lunch), dishes €3-20 (dinner), sandwiches €6-8, snacks €3-12 (12pm to 6pm).