It’s artsy, dear! A stencil on the façade of the former Le Desnoyez was all the trio composed of Gabrielle Stiquel (ex-Balagan), Pierre Jacquemet (ex-Hôtel Bachaumont) and Raphaël Garnier (ex-Maison Drouot) needed to makeover this simple spot equipped with wooden furniture, unfinished walls and a kitchen corner. To bring a little soul to the place, they rely on their locally sourced cuisine. After a few radishes with butter provided when we sat down, our lunch that day was a fine demonstration: a thick hummus sprinkled with flowers, flame-charred zucchini, guindilla peppers and capers; pretty pan fried red mullet fillets with golden skin, over a mosaic of glazed vegetables (turnips, carrots, radishes and spring onions); before ending the meal with a fantastic old-fashioned flan, as creamy as you could hope, from La Petite Boulangerie de Belleville! // A.A.
FEELING THIRSTY? Wines that go down easy: a white Anjou from the Château du Breuil (€6 a glass); Clos La Carizière, a Muscadet-sur-Lie from Jo Landron (€30 a bottle); an Alsatian Pinot noir from Sons of Wine (€35 a bottle).
PRICE: Set menus €18-21 (weekday lunch), shellfish with Muscadet and Champagne €10-15 (Sunday), à la carte €34-43.
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