restaurant

Le Pinceau

Le Pinceau (Paris)

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It’s artsy, dear! A stencil on the façade of the former Le Desnoyez was all the trio composed of Gabrielle Stiquel (ex-Balagan), Pierre Jacquemet (ex-Hôtel Bachaumont) and Raphaël Garnier (ex-Maison Drouot) needed to makeover this simple spot equipped with wooden furniture, unfinished walls and a kitchen corner. To bring a little soul to the place, they rely on their locally sourced cuisine. After a few radishes with butter provided when we sat down, our lunch that day was a fine demonstration: a thick hummus sprinkled with flowers, flame-charred zucchini, guindilla peppers and capers; pretty pan fried red mullet fillets with golden skin, over a mosaic of glazed vegetables (turnips, carrots, radishes and spring onions); before ending the meal with a fantastic old-fashioned flan, as creamy as you could hope, from La Petite Boulangerie de Belleville! // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? Wines that go down easy: a white Anjou from the Château du Breuil (€6 a glass); Clos La Carizière, a Muscadet-sur-Lie from Jo Landron (€30 a bottle); an Alsatian Pinot noir from Sons of Wine (€35 a bottle).

PRICE: Set menus €18-21 (weekday lunch), shellfish with Muscadet and Champagne €10-15 (Sunday), à la carte €34-43.

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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