Levantine tomette tile floors, ochre walls, big plants, Indian antiques… Welcome to the new stronghold for worldly diners! That’s where the French-Afghani chef and cofounder of the Hôtel Babel, Clarie Feral-Akram, and sous-chef Sofiane Sadi Haddad, send out a feast of comforting small plates. The other night: roasted broccoli glazed in a Bollywood-inspired tandoori sauce; perfectly cooked breaded veal brains with a cosmic mint raita sprinkled with fresh cilantro for dipping; fried artichokes with a subtle aioli and smoked paprika; before an incredible chocolate mousse with za’atar and caramelized hazelnuts. Otherwise, if you’ve still got room: roasted and spiced suckling lamb shoulder, Corrèze veal chops with loads of veggies, or octopus served whole with Kalamata olives, raisins and a spicy gochujang condiment. // Gwen Jacquère
FEELING THIRSTY? A natural and organic wine collection: Kéké, a crisp Gamay from Kévin Descombes (€6 a glass), Granite, a taut Muscadet from Fred Niger (€8), a Burgundy from Sylvain Pataille (€8), an Austrian red from Judith Beck (€38 a bottle)…
PRICE: Small plates €6-14, shared cuts of meat €55-69.
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