restaurant

Le Grand Bain

Le Grand Bain (Paris)

  • Date
  • share

Even though chef Edward Delling-Williams has left to go cook at Buffet, Edouard Lax’s brutalist bistro (a steel facade, concrete walls, timeworn banquettes) continues electrifying crowds with an ambiance that feels more like a wrestling match than a city diner. From behind the windowed kitchen, Canadian chef Emily Chia (ex-Saint JOHN in London) ensures a smooth transition with small, punk plates that are as sharp and precise as an uppercut punch. The night we went: Armenian lavash bread with a creamy tuna dipping sauce seasoned with Japanese spices; an insane crisp vegetable salad with pig’s ears and shiso; delightful pan-fried chanterelle mushrooms in browned butter and kimchi; before a good whey panna cotta with roasted blood peach and oats. Seen from afar: sauerkraut remastered as a pâté en croûte, or the legendary chunky panisse. // R.deC.

FEELING THIRSTY? Supernatural wines: an MPN from Viret (€5 a glass), N°07, a Loire red from Alexandre Bain (€42), Jour de Fête, a Languedoc white from the Domaine La Fontude (€36)… And over 70 labels available as magnums, including Sous la Roche, an Arbois-Pupillin from the Domaine de la Borde (€92)…

PRICE: Small plates €6-15.

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
I WANT IT!

About

Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

Fooding® is a registered trademark.