Le Grand Bain

The pitch? A bohemian space (exposed rafters, timeworn benches, a solid wood and metal bar), a handful of tapas d’auteur, and bottles of natural wines… With the promise of all those good things, who among us wouldn’t happily dive into Le Grand Bain from Edward Delling-Williams and Edouard Lax (ex-Au Passage)? The night we went, we had monkfish liver that was as tender as foie gras, adorned with tangy ribbons of raw apple (€10); a beautiful John Dory flavor bomb with endive root and pickled cherries (€8); crispy chickpea panisse, presented like blocks of gold (€6); gourmet red and yellow beetroots, roughly chopped and served with a garam masala spiced yogurt (€8); before a slice of lemon and poppy seed cake, served with a scoop of strawberry ice cream, just incredible (€7)! And naturally, you’ll only find good things to drink: a white Touraine from La Grange Tiphaine (€6 a glass), a red Gaillac from Damien Bonnet (€25 a bottle), a white Arbois from Hughes-Béguet (€46)… Plates €6-15. // C.P.