Le Grand Bain

At the center of their brutalist forge (a steel façade, a windowed kitchen, timeworn benches), Edward Delling-Williams and Edouard Lax run this ultra-inclusive neo-bistro in Vulcanian style, striking while the iron is hot with both feet firmly planted in radi-quality. The night we went, they put on a fine show sending out a burst of small, sharp plates: raw shaved leaks hiding crispy chickpeas and atomic whelks, all whipped up with an intense, creamy vinaigrette; heady panisses served like gold bars with an aphrodisiac ginger mayonnaise; neo-gothic veal sweetbreads in a nocturnal union with artichokes and crispy chicken skin; before an electrifying black lemon sorbet with quartered strawberries and a strong shot of rum for dessert… // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? Natural liquids from Mother Nature: an orange wine from Emilie Fricandò from the Domaine Al di la del Fiume (€7 a glass), a sharp Alsace-Sylvaner from Vincent Fleith (€33 a bottle), a druidic red blend from the Virets in the Drome (€25)…

PRICES: Plates €6-15.