Best sophistroquet of 2019
After Marseille, San Francisco and Pernes-les-Fontaines, Claire et Julien Drouot set down their suitcases, pots and pans in the heart of the Apilles. For almost three years now, they’ve been working a combination of ultra-local ingredients, graphic plates and thoughtful décor (cobalt blue walls, vintage furniture, an open kitchen). On the menu the night we went: puffed Camargue rice crackers and organic wolfish taramasalata; green perfectly cooked vegetables with a cream of lettuce, dried ox fillet and a carrot emulsion; homemade cavatelli tucked into a zucchini skin cream, anchovy-almond gremolata and silky ricotta; an incredible Ligurian-style rabbit stew with black olives and guanciale, plus breaded feet in caramelized onions; before Claire’s desserts – quartered strawberries, black sesame ganache and a coconut emulsion for the first one, orange blossom mousse, orange sorbet and crispy tuiles for the second. // G.LeP.
FEELING THIRSTY? Clean wines: Libre Arbitre, a magnificent local red from Bastien Boutareaud (€10 a glass), a buttery Meursault from François Mikulski (€99 a bottle), or Kopines, a Jura that goes down easy from Anne and Jean-Fraçois Ganevat (€64)…
PRICE: Menu €60.