Best sophistroquet of 2019
There’s no menu outside and you enter through the kitchen – you could almost mistake Maison Drouot for a speakeasy-style restaurant. A year and a half after selling their bistro by the same name in Saint-Rémy, Claire and Julien have reappeared at this very modern table d’hôte with a stainless steel open kitchen and a sushi bar-inspired counter. The night we went, the set menu blew us away: an impeccably dressed bean and pea salad with pickled spring onions, lettuce heart cream, fried shallots, puffed bulgur and an apple vinaigrette; sublime pearly white cod in a braised oil – the smoky house oil –, vegetable broth, pickles and oxalis; a perfect free-range pork loin with a panko crumble, divine jus, miso-sesame sauce and carrot ravioli; a tasty slice of cow’s milk tomme cheese made with a local chili and a tomato-ginger dip; before a cream cheese crémeux with a cinnamon cookie, strawberries and rhubarb for the smooth dessert. The wine list is equally impressive: a lovely white from the Domaine Milan (€8 a glass), a red Burgundy from the Domaine de la Cras (€37 a bottle) or a Crozes-Hermitage Clos des Grives from the Domaine Combier (€65). Menu €55. There are two adorable rooms for rent upstairs as well (€110-130 a night). // J.G.