After Marseille, San Francisco and Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, Claire et Julien Drouot settled down with their suitcases, pots and pans in Mausanne-les-Apilles in 2017. In a space with orange walls, tables with brass legs and crushed velvet armchairs, they continue pampering locals and lucky passersby with aesthetically pleasing dishes made with local ingredients. The evening we went, Julien’s set menu featured: a plump seaweed beignet with puffed rice crackers and a well-seasoned taramasalata as a prelude; a stunning pan bagnat filled with a crisp vegetable brunoise, brought together by a tuna and anchovy mousse; an earthy calamari, squid ink and chorizo ragù nestled in a delicate ravioli; a opaline sea bream fillet in a basil espuma, served with a summer vegetable terrine; before the outstanding desserts made by Claire – an intrepid tomato-raspberry sorbet with a vinegary twist, then blackberries hidden underneath a delicate dulce de leche mousse.
FEELING THIRSTY? Clean wines: a Vaucluse Viognier from Marie Seite and Denis Roueire, a Chilean red from Louis-Antoine Luyt (€9 for each glass), La Sagesse, a Côtes-du-Rhône from the Domaine Gramenon (€12), a Georgian orange wine from Chardakhi (€45 a bottle), La Grand Blanc, a Provence from the Domaine Milan (€54).
PRICE: Tasting menu €65.