Since you ask, Mamenakane (“how are you?” in a Japanese dialect)… Things are better than good at this secret hideaway, set up by Kotaro and Maiko Ike, who left their native Japan half a dozen years ago for Paris and then Perpignan (with stints at Via del Vi and Baston), and Bastien Beaudouin of Baston (Best Pizza Fooding Guide 2022). The concept? A little den that pulsates to the rhythm of their inspiration, with goodies sourced from local producers – market gardens, livestock farmers and small-boat fishermen. The evening we went, sitting comfortably on Bruno Rey chairs, the six-course seasonal menu oozed wabi-sabi: silky smooth smoked eggplant velouté with anchovy and cashew nuts; delicious duck tartare mi-cuit, tone-on-tone with beetroot ice cream topped with dukkah; red mullet full of swagger with fresh peppers in a fish jus; and free-range chicken crowned with porcini mushrooms from Capcir. To round it all off, a divine mel i mató (a sweet fromage frais) infused with apricot and jasmine tea, or rousquille (a Catalan biscuit) remixed with lemon, fig and fig leaf. · Maria Mariaux

FEELING THIRSTY? Natural wines to knock you for six, like Pandaemonium, an unfiltered jacquère from the Apffels (€6 a glass), the unbeatable Olla Blanc from the Matassa estate in Roussillon (€33 a bottle), or Xu-Xu, a grenache-syrah blend from La Borde Noire in Languedoc (€30).

PRICE: Tasting menu €60.