Contrary to what the name might suggest, Mauvais Choix (“bad choice”) was anything but a rash decision. After years of doing the pop-up rounds and private catering gigs, Red Mullet duo has ditched the naan breads to focus on a single vegetarian tasting menu, served in what used to be Le Bain des Dames (an imposing counter stretching through a long, narrow dining room, a windowed remnant of the CBR building and a Majorelle-blue terrace). During our last visit, the lunchtime menu was executed with precision: a tantalizing butternut squash and green curry soup dotted with beetroot rounds and toasted buckwheat; smoked red and yellow beets with lacto-fermented beet foam, sorrel emulsion, pickled mustard seeds and nasturtium leaves – perhaps a touch too overthought; before a plate of sublime agnolotti stuffed with porcini mushrooms and vin jaune, alongside mushrooms foraged by the chef and a glossy egg yolk. Served with our post-lunch coffee, a mini madeleine with a zesty lemon curd center infused with marigold and sea buckthorn leaves, plus a spherical Snickers-style ice cream. At night, the experience expands into a five-course feast. · Gordon Bleu and Laszlo Dela

FEELING THIRSTY? An eclectic wine list spanning Alsace (a pinot noir from Fernand Engel at €40 a bottle) to the Czech Republic (Qvevri, a grüner veltliner orange wine from Michal Kacetl at €38, or a riesling pet’ nat’ from Petr Marada at €55).

PRICE: Lunch menus €27-35 (2-3 courses), dinner €75 (5 courses), cheese supplement €14.