Monique

There’s no need to look for someone’s grandma in the kitchen… It’s actually Monique’s grandson, Julien Caligo, running the show at this semi-fine dining spot in the heart of the Vaunage region. After sharpening his skills under Pierre Gagnaire in the spotless kitchens of Duende in Nîmes, the young chef has taken over a former agricultural warehouse (exposed stones, pristine walls, a big communal table) to showcase his unique culinary style – constantly remixing whatever fresh ingredients he can get his hands on in the process – sourced from the surrounding garrigue scrubland or the nearby sea. A few highlights from our seven-course tasting menu included: creamed chickpeas with Meyer lemon and sumac to get things started; a sardine in a smoky chili oil paired with miniature grilled asparagus from Calvisson and asparagus purée; pillowy soft gnocchi draped in a smoked leek emulsion with lemony notes from oxalis and a touch of brininess from grated bottarga; veal ruffle in a spicy tomato sauce, cozied up with red mullet and a vibrant green sabayon… or a wellness-inducing dessert of local strawberries, rhubarb ice cream and crushed black olives. No doubt about it, Monique would definitely be proud! // Albin Nycta

FEELING THIRSTY? The sommelier Bastien Tricoire (ex-Gabriel in Bordeaux) has put together a selection of well-made wines: Lopin, a cinsault from Berry-Althoff (€40 a glass), muscat, a skin-contact wine from Alexandrie Supernova by Danjou-Banessy (€35), and Les Travers, a saint-joseph from Hugo Vercasson (€70). Otherwise, there’s Bruocsella lambic by Cantillon (€35 for 750 ml) or Oly kombucha produced in the Gard (€6.50 for 330 ml).
PRICE: : Tasting menus €50 (three courses, lunch during the week), €85 (five courses, lunch and dinner) and €110 (seven courses, dinner and Saturday lunch).