Mushu

Spirit of Shinjuku, are you there? On the ashes of a venerable Vietnamese eatery in the Châtelain neighborhood, Benjamin Homsy and Luca Termine (Tatar) have knocked up a long yakitori bar revised and edited to reflect the taste of the times (lacquered wood, dazzling stainless steel, a J-pop soundtrack). Sitting on a high chair opposite the Konro grill that’s spitting out the juicy aroma of grilled meat and fish (best drop your jacket at the cloakroom!), a whole host of mind-blowing skewers parade out before our very eyes: panko-breaded shiitake and king trumpet mushrooms seasoned with yuzu; cuttlefish with umeboshi (salted Japanese plums) sauce and trout roe; XXL glazed prawns; slow-roasted beetroot… alternated between mouthfuls of rice (which would be better off served plain rather than doused in sauce) and tsukemono – those much-loved Japanese pickled vegetables. Even the dessert is on fire: a grilled rice ball with either chocolatey silken tofu or fresh mango pimped out with mirin and nori. // Toni Negroni

FEELING THIRSTY? Wines of the natural sort:Viognier from Cros des Calades (€6.50 per glass), a Côte-Roannaise gamay from the Domaine des Pothiers (€45 a bottle), or Au-Dessus Des Nuages, a skin contact gewürtztraminer from the Hebingers (€74). Otherwise, there are clean sakes courtesy of Cave Coop (from €9 to €9.50 per glass), plus some standard beers and sodas that lack a little imagination.

PRICE: Yakitori €5-12, sides €4 (rice, soup, pickles), desserts €10.