While the winter fun fair floods Grote Markt in Sint-Niklaas with its flashing neon and the greasy aroma of churros, just a can smash away on Collegestraat sits Nova. At carefully timed seatings, Tineke Maerevoet warmly welcomes a maximum of 18 guests into this slim, serene space of pale wood and creamy neutrals, all here for the radical, eco-locavore cuisine of her self-taught husband, Guy de Jonghe, who’s busy behind the counter tending to a crackling wood fire. Over the five-course tasting menu, the chef rolls out deeply flavorful, sauce-forward creations: the inevitable amuse-bouche kicks things off (that evening, seared scallops with creamed celeriac and clementine); followed by stunning grilled monkfish steak nestled in shrimp bisque with spinach and leek ravioli; marinated mackerel, seared and ringed with a coulis of last summer’s fermented tomatoes, watercress jus and house kimchi; then seasonal game in the form of venison, paired with stuffed Savoy cabbage and a sublimely meaty jus… climaxing with a tiramisu extravaganza that (almost) stole the show. Want to push things further? Grilled oysters with beurre blanc or a signature langoustine dish can be added for a supplement. · Jean-Eude d’Aye-Quiry

FEELING THIRSTY? If you don’t go for the wine pairing, freestyle from a tightly curated lineup of natural, eco-minded wines: Les Maiols, a Catalan grenache from Joan d’Anguera (€10 a glass), Kalkundkiesel, an up-front Austrian white from Claus Preisinger (€50 a bottle) or Vieilles Vignes, the ever-reliable morgon from Georges Descombes (€70). For those playing it dry, there’s homemade apple kombucha (€8 a glass).

PRICE: Set menus €75 (Friday lunch) and €110 (supplements €16-25, cheese €10), food and wine pairings €55 (€45 alcohol-free).