Oobatz

With neither a roof nor a wood-fired oven to his name, Dan Pearson truly built up a reputation for himself by temporarily transforming Jessica Yang and Robert Compagnon’s royal Rigmarole into Pizzamarole. The spellbinding trio then decided to team up for good by opening Oobatz (“crazy” in Italian-American slang), with toast-colored tiling in the kitchen, where the wizard of fermentations masters fire and levain for the most fabulous pizzas ever tasted. Served à la carte, there are six biblical versions that get blasted for 90 seconds at 400°C, including a n°5 that launches you directly into the sun: a combo of salsiccia, caciocavallo (a type of stretched-curd cheese) and tomato sauce by the talented chef, gracing the crispy yet easy-to-digest disk made from six types of flour and pure levain, which is rested for 36 hours. The same miracle of flavor occurs with the n°4 featuring some incredible veal and pork polpette, tomatoes, red onions and caciocavallo, and for the n°3 combining green asparagus, wild asparagus and lemon. Still hungry? Opt for the beautiful pizzokie, a cross between pizza and a cookie with meteorites of chocolate under an insanely good scoop of Ugandan vanilla ice cream from Folderol, or the seriously delicious apple and strawberry crumble with fior di latte ice cream. // Philo Sale-Ami

FEELING THIRSTY? : To go with these lovely levain doughs, there are some superb soft drinks, beers and wines: Mus’cat, a Jura skin-contact wine from the Domaine de l’Octavin (€55 a bottle), Fleur d’Or, an Alsatian white blend produced by André Kleinknecht (€6 a glass), a non-alcoholic rhubarb sparkler (€7), or Cuvée Saint-Gilloise, a lambic by Cantillon (€38 for 750 ml).
PRICE: : Pizzas €16-26, desserts €6-14.