In her canteen perched in the charming old town of Le Mans, local talent Sixtine Bazoge (ex-Le Grand Bain and Septime in Paris) is back on home turf, delighting the neighborhood from midday munchies through late afternoon, serving up ultra-fresh, hyper-local fare with zero fuss and plenty of flavor. That late afternoon, we dropped by on a whim and struck gold: a textbook ham, Comté and salad sandwich, perfectly balanced and tucked into a squishy bun from Le Fournil du Lorouer; followed by salted caramel ice cream from Bio Avenir (a GAEC-certified farm in Sarthe), zhuzhed with nuggets of frozen granola cookie dough and a glossy caramel drizzle. Other drool-worthy eats eyed on the lunch menu: panzanella; thin and crispy zucchini tart; and cod with fromage frais and basil. And in the sandwich section: the Farci with tomato sauce, sausage meat and basil, or the VG veggie number stacking potato rösti, red cabbage and ricotta. Hunger, handled! · Pascal Diagonale

FEELING THIRSTY? Beers from Septante-Deux (€3.50 for a half-pint), Archipel kombucha (€5.50 for 330 ml), Umà ginger beer or cola (€6 for 330 ml), a latte brewed with beans from La Main Noire (€5) and a carafe of organic wine from Sébastien Cornille or Christophe Croisard (€19 for 330 ml).

PRICE: Set menus €14.50 to €18.50 (lunch), sandwiches €6.50 to €9.50, desserts €4 to €6.50.