Black tiling and rough brick walls, a constant waltz of famished students and delivery drivers pouring through the place, a Valoriani wood-fired pizza oven… In his narrow neighborhood pizzeria opened back in 2019, Veneto-native Michele Tarana spins out Neapolitan pizzas with bubble-laden dough that was matured for 48 to 72 hours, topped with all kinds of Italian goodies. In addition to the classics, the day we went we noticed all of the following on the blackboard menu: a white Mortadella 2.0 pizza (fior di latte mozzarella, pistachio mortadella, crushed pistachios, lemony ricotta mousse and lemon zest); Asparagi e Guanciale (green asparagus and pecorino); and our personal choice, a formidable Porchetta Funghi – mozzarella, basil and Campania tomato sauce, plus tender slices of porchetta d’Ariccia, shaved red onions and mushrooms. Followed by a pistachio tiramisu, for something dolce to round out the meal. // Timotea Persil

FEELING THIRSTY? A Negroni Sbagliato (€10) and a selection of natural Italian wines: an organic dolcetto d’alba from Giacomo Brezza in Piedmont (€8 a glass), or a biodynamic pinot grigio from Lunaria in Abruzzo (€33 a bottle).

PRICE: Pizzas €10-20.