Pho Diem Xuan

With its two crowded dining rooms, Pho Diem Xuan sure knows a thing of two about the fast-food game – and all the codes of the genre are respected at owner and chef Dung Nguyen’s place (credit cards not accepted, snack counters and a self-serve drink fridge). The furniture – tables, chairs and even the light fixtures – fascinates with its dark knotty wood, which seems straight out of a children’s book by Claude Ponti. Perhaps L’arbre sans fin given the space’s abundant vegetation? An edible fairy tale of sorts? Practically! The day we went for lunch, seated around one of the small tables in front of the window, the house specialty Dac Biet pho was making eyes at us, judging by the legion of bubbles rippling across the surface. The translucent broth fulfills its promise, as the preparation feels like a passionate kiss. Our advice? The small bowl placed next to your soup comes filled with Thai basil and rau ram (Vietnamese cilantro), along with bean sprouts, chili peppers and lemon, so you can season up your soup to your heart’s content. // Salty Litchi

FEELING THIRSTY? Sugar cane juice (€6) so you can really play up the Vietnamese street food element, a ginger-mint infusion (€4) for a kick, or perhaps a punchy Signha beer (€4 for 330 ml), or Vietnamese iced coffee at the end of the meal (€5).

PRICE: À la carte €7-20.