Abri Soba

Restaurant Abri Soba in ParisAbri Soba (Paris) - © Matthieu Jauniau-Dallier

Le Guide Fooding’s 2017 Man of the Year

With Abri Soba, Katsuaki Okiyami, the talented chef from Abri (the tiny bistro and winner of Le Guide Fooding’s 2013 Fooding d’amour award), has gifted us with an elegant new spot with a monumental front door and an orgy of varnished wood inside. At the helm of this temple to soba, Ryo Morishita, the former sommelier at Abri, now keeps an eye on the buckwheat noodles being made in the steamy open kitchen. And our chopsticks as they pick up the magical mouthfuls at every stage of our lunch (2 appetizers + 1 soba = €19): stratospheric tamagoyaki (a layered and slightly sweet omelet) and a vibrant mizuna salad seasoned with shiso and grated daikon radish; followed by the exquisite homemade noodles (your choice of hot or cold), warmed up by a divine dashi-soy broth, and served with excellent duck breast and al dente grilled leeks. The dinners are even more carefully crafted: palourde clams steamed over sake (€10), wild vegetable-shrimp tempura (€18) and a flavorful bonito tataki over hay (€11), before a buckwheat tea crème brûlée (€5). Conclusion: one small step for Katsu, one giant leap for our appetites! Worth celebrating with a Kozaemon Junmai Daiginjo sake (€9 a glass) or a Cheverny from Villemade (€28 a bottle). Lunch formula option with soba (€14-21) + €5 supplement for two small appetizers. À la carte €30-45. No reservations. // Matthieu Jauniau-Dallier

Getting there

Restaurant Abri Soba
10, rue Saulnier
TEL: Pas de téléphone.
Subway: Cadet, Notre-Dame de Lorette