restaurant

Abri Soba

Abri Soba (Paris)

© Matthieu Jauniau-Dallier

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Journey to the End of the Noodle! But not just any noodle: the soba noodle, a divine string of buckwheat dough, displayed in all its natural glory at this wood-clad Japanese spot with industrial furniture. The other day at lunch, from amongst the 16 options, we dug into marvelous hot soba noodles in a crystalline broth with duck and leeks; then cold soba with soy sauce, veiled by grated radish – which really took things to the next level! It was all accompanied by rice, vegetable dumplings or a small bean salad, for just a few extra kopecks. At night, the menu unveils other izakaya-esque delights, delivered to your table by the doting staff: karaage, breaded korokke croquettes, potesala potato salad, buckwheat crème brûlée… In short, it’s so(ba) amazing, baby! // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? Natural wines (a Touraine white from Thierry Puzelat at €6 a glass, a Chiroubles from Christophe Pacalet at €32 a bottle…) and a list of sakes that’ll have you feeling like you’re on the Shinkansen bullet train, zipping between the prefectures of Hyogo, Niigata, Saga, etc. (glasses €8-10, 720 ml bottles starting at €45).

PRICE: Soba €9-17, plates €4-14, desserts €6.

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