High up in Sauve on this small village square lined with plane trees and decorated with a fountain, wine barrels and lanterns, you’ll find Emily Schons and Léo Zamponi, who keep their terrace hydrated with good naturalist wines. As for the food, it’s all locally sourced: the latter pillages the local markets, while the former stitches together unfussy dishes. The other night, after an ingenious charcuterie platter, we had: a hearty brandade de morue with bergamot-infused oil and mixed greens from Oustalet; tender sautéed veal from a farm in the Lozère, with moist polenta, tomatoes and citrus; a “ja-jardinière” plate with a Levantine feel – herbed chickpeas, roasted beets and cauliflower, tahini, quinoa tabbouleh, spiced carrots and a soft-boiled egg; before a white chocolate and raspberry cheesecake, or a chocolate pudding with whipped cream and a giant almond tuile for dessert. // T.M.

FEELING THIRSTY? Over 120 references, which are very much centered around fine vintages: a Languedoc red from the Clos des Calades or a white from the Mas des Agrunelles (€5 and €2.50 a glass), a Côtes-du-Rhône red from Elodie Balme (€18 a bottle), an Aude white from Jean-Baptiste Senat (€31), a Tavel from Pfifferling (€35)… It’s also worth noting that the bottles can be taken to go. Credit cards not accepted.

PRICE: Platters of cheese and charcuterie €12, mains €9.50 to €17.50, desserts €7.