Wooden benches, legendary Thonet chairs, a classic zinc-topped bar, old terrazzo tiles… The fifties décor acts as the very serious backdrop for Antoine Anclin’s cuisine (ex-Chapel, Senderens), which the people of Nancy have been enjoying since 2012. Scribbled out on the blackboard, the day we went for lunch the market menu (sourced from the covered market, located right across the street) featured: a gigantic summer salad of zucchini, carrot, mozzarella and pine nuts; juicy roasted suckling pig ham with plenty of red onions, a potato casserole, carrots, flat beans and clover; before some divine cherries roasted in port and served with a spoonful of whipped cream. On Thursday evenings apéros start at 6:30pm with a parade of tapas, and on Fridays, they serve the only dinner of the week at 8 o’clock! // E.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? Perfect vintages from the region and further away: a Lorrain red from Maison Crochet (€6 a glass), a Côtes-du-Rhône white from La Cabotte (€4.80), a Morgon from Jean Foillard (€36 a bottle), a natural Côtes-de-Toul Pinot noir from the Domaine Claude Vosgien (€30).

PRICE: À la carte €24-51, tapas €3.50 to €7 (dinner).