Au Nouveau Nez

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The roles are well established at this Italian wine haven (whitewashed stone walls, an imposing wine shelving unit, Thonet chairs) in the Folie-Méricourt neighborhood: Valerio Corvino watches over the bottles, Carmela Pugliese takes care of guests and Alessandra Olivi (who used to work for the great Valeria Piccini) sends out clean, meat-heavy meals. The day we went for lunch, the latter brought a little forgotten glory to the menu ouvrier: a comforting, peppery chickpea velouté; perfectly roasted chicken thigh with kohlrabi purée and salad, for the delightful dish of the day; before a straightforward Greek yogurt mousse with a hazelnut crumble. At night, the menu goes on the offensive: veal tartare with red kuri squash and hazelnuts; baccalà fritto and peppers; gnudi with a zucchini/almond cream… // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? Ask Valerio, who has a sharp nose: a Loire Gamay from Vincent Caillé (€6 a glass), a Riesling from the Domaine Durrmann (€28 a bottle), a Campania red from Canlibero (€36)…

PRICE: Dish of the day €13, menu €15-18 (weekday lunch), plates €8-20 (dinner).

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