Amandine is unlikely to provide you with any clues as to the contents of her talented husband Jean-Michel’s tasting menus. The night we went, in a space with timeworn wooden tables, dim ceiling lights and potted plants, the local chef, who trained at La Tour Rose (Lyon) and under Troisgros (Roanne), served a flawless menu full of terroir-ist touches. Its six courses (€70) included: delicate escargot tempura over a bed of bulgur wheat with tangy yogurt and an herb salad; stunning foie gras served as it is and paired with dried rhubarb and rhubarb chutney; a lovely Breton lobster served over embers that were still smoking hot, plus peas, white beans and a dashi emulsion; majestic pigeon breast served pink and breaded pigeon thigh, with a variety of beetroot preparations (glazed in butter, slow-roasted in a salt crust, smoked, beet & lovage oil) and some very earthy kohlrabi; a stunning vin jaune chicken velouté espuma, with diced tangy apple, hazelnuts and grated Comté; before a superb dessert featuring a raspberry tartlet, raspberry sorbet atop a crumble base and an arugula jelly. It’s also worth noting that there’s a more affordable lunch menu available during the week – eg.: shredded rabbit thigh, herb jelly and diced foie gras; rabbit saddle stuffed with figs and chard, with pickled red onion and a full-bodied rabbit jus; tiramisu with orange ice cream. // G.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? A wine book as thick as the bible, with over 800 references: a Pouilly-Loché from Le Clos des Rocs (€5.20 a glass), a Chénas from the Domaine de la Grand’Cour (€9.50), a Burgundy Aligoté from Coche-Dury (€41 a bottle), a Fleurie from the Domaine Chamonard (€59)…

PRICE: Menus €28-35 (lunch except on Saturdays), €70 and €105 (food and wine pairings + €45 and €55).