Éphémère

After meandering through the village of Vauxrenard, don’t expect to see any signs indicating that you’ve arrived at Éphémère, a hidden guinguette run by Gusta van Walsem, a Dutch legalist whose partner is winemaker Yvon Métras. We’re familiar with the concept of farm-to-table dining, but dining near the land that quenches our thirst? That’s a bit rarer! Every year since 2018, before feeding the seasonal grape pickers, the grande dame invites a chef to tend to the gardens of this Beaujolais house (big pine trees and canvas patio covers on the al fresco dining area). After Jessica Ydo (ex-Smulpaap), Deborah Blank (Ember) and Gaëlle Delvaux (Bonne Femme, ex-Amatxi), now it’s Déborah Zago’s turn to run the kitchen! The day we went for lunch, she served all of the following on gingham tablecloths: crispy panisses with spicy mayonnaise; refreshing cucumber water with roasted tomatoes, homemade ricotta and basil-infused oil; a generous plate of spicy couscous topped with plump beef meatballs, roasted carrots and yellow squash, chickpeas, pickled daikon radish and shaved almonds; before a big, rustic cream puff filled with elderflower whipped cream. // Rosa Poulsard

FEELING THIRSTY? Wines produced by friends: a Savagnin from the Domaine des Bodines (€33 a bottle), a velvety Gamay from the Domaine Chapel (€31)… Or a Savoie lager from the Brasserie des Voirons (€4 for 330 ml).
PRICE: Snacks €3-4, prix-menus €25-30.