Craving vintage Troisgros-style cooking? Head straight over to Iguerande, where the Le Grand Couvert keeps beautiful crowds satisfied. Under the direction of Léo Troisgros (Michel’s 28-year-old son, who has worked at La Grenouillère, and in Berlin and Tokyo), dine in the impressive stable refurbished by Patrick Bouchain (high ceilings, a monumental fireplace, glass blade suspension lamps) or on the terrace with views of the Brionne countryside. For us, the day we went for lunch: a ritual “welcome soup” – a silky chilled fennel velouté with cumin, lemon and almonds; pan-fried escargot with homemade preserved porcini mushrooms, which lacked a little flavor; perfect veal kidneys with potatoes, capers and a sage sabayon; before a voluptuous baba au rhum for the old-school dessert, imbibed with a vodka syrup, served with a lemon-redcurrant cream and a caramelized crisp. // G.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? Good quality wines selected by Lisa Roche, the restaurant manager and the chef’s girlfriend, and Christian Vermorel, the sommelier at Troisgros: a Maranges white from Chevrot et Fils (€9 a glass), a natural Savoie red from Giachino (€6), a Côte-Roannaise from the Domaine Sérol (€27 a bottle), a Rhone white from Jamet (€40), a Savigny-lès-Beaune from the Domaine Tollot-Beaut (€80)…

PRICE: Menu-carte €46, kids’ menu €26.