Le Grand Couvert

Le Grand Couvert (Iguerande)

Félix Ledru

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Craving vintage Troisgros-style cooking? Head straight over to Iguerande, where the Le Grand Couvert keeps beautiful crowds satisfied. Under the direction of Léo Troisgros (Michel’s 28-year-old son, who has worked at La Grenouillère, and in Berlin and Tokyo), dine in the impressive stable refurbished by Patrick Bouchain (high ceilings, a monumental fireplace, glass blade suspension lamps) or on the terrace with views of the Brionne countryside. For us, the day we went for lunch: a ritual “welcome soup” – a silky chilled fennel velouté with cumin, lemon and almonds; pan-fried escargot with homemade preserved porcini mushrooms, which lacked a little flavor; perfect veal kidneys with potatoes, capers and a sage sabayon; before a voluptuous baba au rhum for the old-school dessert, imbibed with a vodka syrup, served with a lemon-redcurrant cream and a caramelized crisp. // G.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? Good quality wines selected by Lisa Roche, the restaurant manager and the chef’s girlfriend, and Christian Vermorel, the sommelier at Troisgros: a Maranges white from Chevrot et Fils (€9 a glass), a natural Savoie red from Giachino (€6), a Côte-Roannaise from the Domaine Sérol (€27 a bottle), a Rhone white from Jamet (€40), a Savigny-lès-Beaune from the Domaine Tollot-Beaut (€80)…

PRICE: Menu-carte €46, kids’ menu €26.

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


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