restaurant

Le Grand Couvert

Le Grand Couvert (Iguerande)

Félix Ledru

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Craving vintage Troisgros-style cooking? Head straight over to Iguerande, where the Le Grand Couvert keeps beautiful crowds satisfied. Under the direction of Léo Troisgros (Michel’s 28-year-old son, who has worked at La Grenouillère, and in Berlin and Tokyo), dine in the impressive stable refurbished by Patrick Bouchain (high ceilings, a monumental fireplace, glass blade suspension lamps) or on the terrace with views of the Brionne countryside. For us, the day we went for lunch: a ritual “welcome soup” – a silky chilled fennel velouté with cumin, lemon and almonds; pan-fried escargot with homemade preserved porcini mushrooms, which lacked a little flavor; perfect veal kidneys with potatoes, capers and a sage sabayon; before a voluptuous baba au rhum for the old-school dessert, imbibed with a vodka syrup, served with a lemon-redcurrant cream and a caramelized crisp. // G.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? Good quality wines selected by Lisa Roche, the restaurant manager and the chef’s girlfriend, and Christian Vermorel, the sommelier at Troisgros: a Maranges white from Chevrot et Fils (€9 a glass), a natural Savoie red from Giachino (€6), a Côte-Roannaise from the Domaine Sérol (€27 a bottle), a Rhone white from Jamet (€40), a Savigny-lès-Beaune from the Domaine Tollot-Beaut (€80)…

PRICE: Menu-carte €46, kids’ menu €26.

Late-night munchies?

Le Fooding’s 2023 Guide is ready to dazzle with its brilliant selection of the year’s latest hotspots, including 500 restaurants, bars, bedrooms, shops and cellars across France; a highly-anticipated award’s list; and ever-more enlightening in-depth articles sprinkled throughout the extravagant, 228-page edition of the yearly magazine, illustrated by the crème de la crème of emerging artists.

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

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