Chez Pimousse

After working in the kitchens of the Bistrot du Potager, Pierre-Michaël Martin, aka Pimousse, docked a lovely bistro to the banks of the Saone River where he capsizes the hearts of his hungry guests in a space with big windows and lots of woodwork, all painted white and emerald green. Seated at a farm table, with views of the succulent pigeons and ducks roasting in the kitchen, we tasted all of the following the night we went, à la carte: cockles, followed by mussels tucked up against a purée of coco de Paimpol beans and pimped out with sorrel leaves and sorrel sorbet; a sublime monochromatic dish of octopus cooked in red wine, with berries plus roasted and smoked beets; a fillet of John Dory cooked in butter, surfing on a bed of chard over a beef jus, all served with pan-fried foie gras that felt a tad overkill; before a disk of meringue topped with blueberry compote, corn ice cream and crumbled brioche. // Damien Sorin

FEELING THIRSTY? There are no natural wines available by the glass according to the waiter, who nonetheless proposed a Muscadet produced by Jo Landron (€8). Besides that, there’s a Savoie white from the Domaine des Ardoisières (€35 a bottle), a Beaune wine from the Domaine de Montille (€74) or a Côte du Py Morgon by Foillard (€98 for a magnum).
PRICE: Prix-fixe menus €35 (lunch) and €70 (dinner, 8 courses), à la carte €46-75.