2015 Guide best superqualichti-cathodiquexquis-miamdelicious restaurant
Inside his Lille flowerpot (the Flemish translation of “bloempot”) with a neo-industrial loft look (untreated hardwood floors, exposed bricks, metal rafters, mismatched chairs), the energetic Florent Ladeyn translates into city speak the philosophy of his country inn located 35km away in Le Vert Mont. You’ll find the same striking beers (most notably the one infused with goat milk and cucumber) and plates that scream Flanders, both of which compose the salt of his cuisine – salt being, by the way, the only non-locavore ingredient allowed in his kitchen! The day we went for lunch, our €40 menu included: a zucchini blossom beignet stuffed with scallion cream – perfect with a Pouilly-Fumé from Alexandre Bain (€5 a glass); a delightful spring roll with leeks and bottarga; perfect highland sirloin steak grilled under a complex flood of shiitake powder, mushroom mousseline and an intense jus – enhanced by the coppery notes of a Syrah from Romain Pion (€5); before a goat’s cheese emulsion over a Mirabelle plum compote and then a series of small desserts – cucumbers in syrup, yogurt and herb sorbet, meadowsweet crumble. To drink, there’s Bloempot beer from the Brasserie Thiriez (€18 for 750 ml), Chablis from Thomas Pico (€49 a bottle) or a Loire red from Claude Courtois (€60). Menus €25 (weekday lunch), €40 (€30). // P.A.