Super restaurateur Florent Ciccoli (Jones, Le Bien Venu, Cheval d’Or) clearly isn’t done winning us over at his carefully designed bistro (Belle Epoque tiling, Formica tables, a coppery bar, wooden banquettes). The night we went, we skipped his delicious pizzettes for the first time (mozzarella, Parmesan, harissa; smoked mozzarella, Padrón peppers; sausage, spinach, Roscoff onion, fennel) in order to dive straight into the small plates: incredible grilled Padrón peppers with Datterini tomatoes topped with raw Albacore tuna, eel cream and za’atar; comforting dauphine potatoes on a bed of horseradish cream with trout roe; before a cleverly sourced cheese plate including an insanely good brillat-savarin! And for all those who don’t feel like stopping there, the desserts are nothing to snub: a fig leaf crème brûlée or a chocolate ganache with fromage blanc ice cream. What about the lunch menus? Cod fritters; sausage, potatoes and pointy cabbage in a beurre blanc sauce; fig tartlet… A.Sa.
FEELING THIRSTY? Pure natural wines: a Loire Chenin (€7 a glass), aMuscadet-Sèvre-et-Maine from the Domaine de l’Ecu (€27 a bottle) or a Gaillac red from Plageoles (€28 a bottle)…
PRICE: Menu €18-20 (weekday lunch), pizzettes €6-8, small plates €6-10.
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