Right by the Petite Venise neighborhood, inside this floral bistro that’s a cross between a wine shop and a restaurant (exposed stone walls, high barstools, a long zinc bar), you’ll find Nicolas Groell (ex-Gordon Ramsay) who sure doesn’t kid around with portion sizes! Just take a look at the beautiful cuts of dry-aged beef (a 250-gram Angus flank steak, a 350-gram Galician ribeye) seared on an open flame and served with outstanding fries cooked in goose fat! But the Alsatian chef also makes more coquettish marvels served à la carte, just like the night we went: a foie gras jewel in a black olive crust with a brilliant lemon confit jelly (€14); simple scallops wrapped up in an elegant Noilly Prat reduction with a Parmesan risotto (€26); or a wonderfully uncomplicated but delectable Colmar strawberry soup infused with hibiscus and paired with a strawberry-mint-basil sorbet (€7.50). To drink, there’s an expert wine list: a Riesling grand cru from Rieffel (€5.50 a glass), a Gamay from the Domaine Prieuré Roch (€59 a bottle) or a Languedoc from Chabanon for €65. Menus from €16.90 to €40 (lunch except on Saturday), à la carte €39-59. // R.deC.