L'Épicurien (Colmar)

© Julie Zwingelstein

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As the French expression goes, “I fell into the pots and pans as a kid,” says Nicolas Groell (ex-Gordon Ramsay). He’s still swimming around in them at this epicurean restaurant done up with bare stones and carved wooden rafters. In the center of Colmar’s Petite Venise neighborhood, his culinary philosophy is about the curative virtues of cuisine… The bottles of wine lining the walls wait to be taken down and paired with the beautiful pedigree meats – pigeon, Black Angus steak, Iberian pork pluma… Served à la carte the other night: a plethoric salad of plump scallops atop some earthy St. George’s and oyster mushrooms, along with other varieties, plus a soy-ginger sauce; a thick bone-in veal chop grilled with a teriyaki glaze, plus an angostura jus, Parmesan risotto and vegetables; before a chopped fruit salad served with passion fruit sorbet and an almond tuile. // M.J.-D.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s Satellite, a Côtes-de-Bordeaux from Olivier Techer (€5.50 a glass), an Alsace Pinot blanc from Josmeyer (€40 a bottle), an Alsace Pinot noir from the Rieffels (€39)…

PRICE: Menus €17.50 to €40 (weekday lunch), à la carte €40-59.

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