It’s 2019 and all the arches on the Place aux Herbes seem to have been invaded by some rather run-of-the-mill wine bars… All of them? No! Because La Famille has been popping open pretty bottles and stunning its crowds with fraternal tapas for the past three years now. The troublemakers behind this operation? Yoko and Roman Kolinka, with help from their accomplice Victor Faure (ex-Artémise), who watches over each table on the scattered terrace. The other night, one such table was graced with the following: beautiful baba ganoush; small grilled calamari with a persillade sauce; a striking broad bean and preserved tomato salad; a light brandade de morue with chorizo; a juicy hanger steak with golden fries; before a family-style chocolate mousse served in a cafeteria glass – or raspberry crème brûlée. // T.M.

FEELING THIRSTY? Organic-centric wines: Little Garance, a Coteaux-du-Pont-du-Gard white from the family estate (€3 a glass), a Duché-d’Uzès red from the Domaine Les Lys (€4), a Côtes-du-Rhône red from La Glacière (€24 a bottle) or a white from the Domaine de La Réméjeanne (€28)…

PRICE: Small plates €5-9, mains €13.50 to €17.50, desserts €6.50.