Antoine Delmas continues putting on a fine show for guests at this imposing mas farmhouse in the French Catalan backcountry! At Le Cabaret, his bric-a-brac bistro with a zinc-topped bar, an octopus-like chandelier, old paintings and mismatched bottles, this master of seafood delights us with all the treasures he unearths at the Llançà seafood market. The night we went, seated under the mulberry trees in the garden, the incredible four-course menu paraded out, with theatrical announcements for every course: divine mussels with cilantro, crisp haricots verts and big chunks of roasted pork; very fresh anchovy boquerones caught the day before and marinated in vinegar, paired with some incredible open field tomatoes; lovely raw mackerel with zucchini, peaches and fresh strawberries; before a perfect Catalan flan. FYI: cash and reservations are a must. And on the way home, beware of wild boars crossing the road! // G.V.
FEELING THIRSTY? Natural wines, today and always: a Grenache-Carignan from Le Clos des Vins d’Amour in Maury (€4 a glass), a Grenache white or vin gris from Coume Del Mas in Port-Vendres, a red blend from the Domaine Modat in Cassagnes, a Roussillon red, Les Glaneurs, from the Domaine des Foulards Rouges from Jean-François Nicq (€30 for each bottle)…
PRICE: Set menu €40.
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