Warning: this establishment was tested before the reign of Covid 19… Certain information may no longer be up to date in regards to the current situation: hours, menu, prices…
Le Fooding Guide’s Best Restaurant of 2007
A living god amongst enlightened chefs who converted to the bistrology d’auteur movement, Iñaki Aizpitarte (who also runs the swaggering Le Dauphin) reigns as the undisputed master over his faubourgeois kingdom. Amongst the old-fashioned banquettes and globe lamps, here is where it all began… and begins again with a magical set menu that outsmarted a crowd of independent cinema stars, foodies who speak very little French and loyal regulars the night we went: an incredible preliminary triptych composed of a shot of ceviche (tiger’s milk and raspberries), fried smelt and spider crab in an apple jus; incredible squid cooked in ink and served with coco beans; a perfect pearly-white pollack with peppers and basil; crispy veal sweetbreads with delicate duxelles and incredible porcini; and for the final shot of flavor, buttermilk with fig and a legendary tocino de cielo – an egg yolk caramelized with a blowtorch, placed atop a round of dacquoise, made to be eaten in one go… or you risk getting slapped! // F.P.
FEELING THIRSTY? For our dinner, there were food and wine pairings a go-go: an Austrian white from Andreas Tscheppe, a Gard red from Pfifferling, Amontillado La Frontera, Champagne from Ruppert-Leroy, an Australian Maidennii vermouth and Macvin-du-Jura from Julien Labet. Wines by the glass starting at €6, bottles from €30 to €190.
PRICE: Set menu €75 (food-wine pairings +€65).