“True happiness costs little; if it is expensive, it is not of the superior kind.” There’s no doubt that François-René would change his mind after a taste of the clever dishes served at Le Chateaubriand! The man behind the magic? Basque legend Iñaki Aizpitarte (also behind Le Dauphin), who continues to let his culinary guns do the talking inside his faubourgeois kingdom (old tiling, leather banquettes, globe light fixtures). The other night, his memorable set menu (which wasn’t even expensive given how good it all was!) featured: tasty sardines wrapped in crispy rice paper; incredible razor clams with sea beans under a watercress emulsion; a magical Albacore tuna and red pepper duo sprinkled with cilantro; an infallible turbot in a rhubarb and sorrel broth; before an impetuous cherry sorbet intensified by capers and fresh almonds; and then for the final climax, an egg yolk placed atop a caramelized macaron, the culinary genius’s magnificent signature creation. // N.K.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s loads to choose from, between natural winemakers and impressive appellations: a Saumur blanc produced by Bruno Dubois (€8 a glass), a Roussillon red from Anthony Tortul (€42 a bottle), a Volnay from Frédéric Cossard (€84), a Meursault from Jean Javillier (€100), a Côte-Rôtie from Jean-Michel Stephan (€101)…

PRICE: Set menu €75 (food and wine pairings €65).