Warning: this establishment was tested before the reign of Covid 19… Certain information may no longer be up to date in regards to the current situation: hours, menu, prices…
Le Guide Fooding’s Best Décor of 2011
Inside the marbled Dauphin custom-designed by the famous architect Rem Koolhaas, Iñaki Aizpitarte’s (Le Chateaubriand) cuisine shines bright for a crowd composed of Fashion Week starlets, Japanese tourists and local hipsters. The night we went, standing around the central bar where the staff addresses you using the tu form, we devoured every last crumb on our small plates: subtle mouthfuls of tuna killed using the ikejime method, served with olive oil and Roscoff onions; mi-cuit gambero rosso shrimp cooked on the plancha, plus an incredible jus de cuisson; very tasty txangurro, a Basque stuffing made with spider crab; or even creamy buttermilk ice cream with a lemon tart that was rectangularly pointillist. At lunch during the week, come for a delicious bowl of soup: spicy chorba, beef ramen in a green peppercorn broth, etc. // F.P.
FEELING THIRSTY? Natural wines gallop along: a comforting Loire white from Olivier Lemasson (€6 a glass); a red Le Gros from the Mosses (€36 a bottle); a Bourgogne-Vézelay white, La Châtelaine, from the Domaine de la Cadette (€45); a Champagne blanc de blancs from Jacques Lassaigne (€80) or a striking Gin d’Août from the Distillerie du Petit Grain (€11 a glass).
PRICE: Soups €13-15 (lunch), plates €4-20 (dinner).