Le Guide Fooding’s Best Décor of 2011
The all-white-marble look from Rem Koolhaas has made this spot the darling of the fashion world ever since it opened. An unparalleled UFO of a restaurant, the outrageous Dauphin challenges the monarch of the brilliant neighboring Chateaubriand every night, with devastating tapas – spider crab txangurro (€19), palourde clams, tomatoes confit and basil (€14), oxtail poached with button mushrooms (€13) – and an arsenal of natural wines – Foillard, Sabre, Puzelat, Albertus, Reau, Renaud… Plenty to help you (almost) forget that the central bar for wild nights is also open during the day, with a cool little menu composed of three pho soups, ribeye steak and a fish of the day. At lunch, we opted for some incredible Brazilian fried tapioca cubes (€6), spicy avocado ceviche (€8), a big bowl of broth with Madagascar green peppercorns and wavy noodles from Ippudo, strips of beef, plus white cabbage, carrots and peanuts (€13), before a delicious buttermilk ice cream (€5). To wash it all down: a half-pint of Vedett lager (€3.50), a Morgon-Côte-du-Py from Foillard (€8 a glass), a white Bourgogne from Fanny Sabre (€7), or a red Touraine from Puzelat (€42 a bottle). Broths €12-13, dinner plates from €3.50 to €19. // V.V.