Best restaurant of 2019
Le Rigmarole certainly isn’t some silly thing. Facing his glowing grill that runs on binchotan (Japanese wood charcoal), the Franco-American chef Robert Compagnon (ex-Torishin in NYC) operates his kitchen with a monastic attention to detail and a metronomic constancy that commands respect, much to the delight of Parisian foodies. Dim lighting, a long walnut bar, taupe seats… it may be a bit austere, but the menu manages to light up both the evening and guests’ faces: light and crispy spring onion beignets; an essential line-caught bass tartare with basil; a fatty and tangy interplay of lightly grilled salmon with spicy yogurt; deliciously bitter Sicilian orange lacquered chicken skewers; mouthwatering homemade ricotta and heirloom tomato ravioli; incredible grilled zucchini with smoked cod roe; creamy chawanmushi with shiitake mushrooms; small grilled duck hearts; thunderous fanciulle pasta with octopus ragù; absolutist grilled lettuce heart with anchoiade; legendary grilled polpette served with paratha bread… All that before the magnificent desserts by the California-born pastry chef Jessica Yang, one of the chef’s behind the “chefs’ menu”: divine hot and cold temperatures from roasted strawberries over vanilla ice cream and hazelnut oil, followed by an intense Vietnamese coffee chocolate. // V.Z.
FEELING THIRSTY? We’re swimming through a sea of natural wines, with some beautiful discoveries along the way: a German orange from 2Naturkinder (€10 a glass), a wonderful Majorcan red from Sistema Vinari (€11), a Savoyard white from the Domaine des Ardoisières (€52 a bottle) or a Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune red from Chanterêves (€72).
PRICE: Plates and skewers (by pairs) €6-29, menus des chefs €49-69.