Le Rigmarole

Le Rigmarole (Paris)

© Giovanni Maggiora

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You won’t hear any gibberish at Rigmarole, an elegant lair (a long walnut wood bar, dim lighting) warmed up by the heat of Robert Compagnon’s Japanese binchotan wood charcoal. There’s a meditative ambiance about the place in which, unsurprisingly, we had one of the best dinners of 2020! Served à la carte (a little pasta-heavy, unfortunately), the night we went: a glorious diver scallop and basil tartare; presidential mackerel cooked on the BBQ over a bed of thunderously spiced yogurt; a divine grilled aorta and heart skewer; a very gourmet lettuce heart grilled over charcoal and moistened by an anchovy sauce; ravishing ravioli lounging over ricotta and eggplant; pasta with a touch of outrenoir squid ink sensually twirled on the plate; stunning spaghetti in fish soup topped with grilled red mullet fillets; before the playful dessert of the day, a much improved version of an After Eight with mint and dark chocolate infused ice cream. // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? Nothing but some killer natural wines: a Loire Sauvignon from Noëlla Morantin (€8 a glass), Les Trouillots, a Côtes-du-Jura white from Valentin Morel (€38), an Ardèche Gamay from Hervé Souhaut (€5), Red Sonja, an Austrian red from Christian Tschida (€70)…

PRICE: Plates and skewers (for two) €8-39.

Late-night munchies?

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2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

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