Sheer curtains strung up from the ceiling, mashrabiya lamps, benches covered in cushions… At this marock’n’roll lounge, you’re usually toasting with a glass of natural wine, possibly from the Domaine Gramenon, the Foillards, the Tricots, Arena… And what about the grub? All the North African classics stewed up with fine French ingredients (chicken from Marans, suckling lamb from the Pyrenees, figs from Solliès…)! The other night, we had a seductive mechouia salad with grilled tomatoes and peppers and perfectly cooked merguez; a trio of spiced grilled meats (leg of lamb skewers, kefta meatballs, merguez); couscous royal with free-range chicken – possibly the best in Paris; delicious lamb tajine with olives and preserved lemons – or, when it’s in season, fresh figs, almonds and honey; and to end the meal, homemade Middle Eastern pastries with fresh mint tea, of course! // T.V.X.

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a Moroccan red from Alain Graillot (€10 a glass), a Loire white from Nicolas Reau (€34 a bottle), a Bourgueil from the Bretons or a Minervois from Jean-Baptiste Senat (€38)…. or mint tea (€5 for a teapot).

PRICE: À la carte €38-53.