Magma

Magma mia! Things are bubbling away around Oberkampf, where this sleek new restaurant (patterned tiling, olive green banquettes, atmospheric light fixtures) sends out fiery yet delicate dishes. After warming up at some impressive establishments, Lucie Paulhan (ex-La Traversée and Le Maquis) and chef Ryuya Ono (ex-Maison and L’Attache) are now bringing this ardent restaurant to life. Served à la carte the night we went: smoked/charred potatoes and trout roe tucked into a haddock velouté; an incredible eruption of Albacore tuna sashimi with paper-thin slices of cucumber, yellow peach and smoked stracciatella; classic salmon topped with a tomato-rich fumet; suckling pig shoulder served with a volcanic clam jus – so good that we wiped our plate clean with the bread specially made by Fermentation Générale… There were no post-volcanic earthquakes over dessert with the chocolate-coffee marquise, but you are at risk of heatstroke from the wonderful homemade meringue ice cream. The mood at lunchtime is just as promising as at dinner: tomato salad, Battaglione cucumber and raw cream; mi-cuit salmon, Borlotti beans and charred eggplant; matcha, pine or cilantro ice cream for dessert… // Henriette Ma

FEELING THIRSTY? A few natural labels get the job done right: a Sylvaner orange wine produced by Philippe Brand (€8 a glass), a German white by the Brand Brothers (€34 a bottle), an Aveyron red blend from Les Chemins de l’Arkose (€30)… 
PRICE: Set menus €27-30 (weekday lunch), à la carte €41-64 (dinner), tasting menu €55 (six courses, lunch) and €70 (seven courses, dinner).