Le Sot l'y Laisse
At the back of his very simple bistro (white walls, globular glass light fixtures), Eiji Doihara (ex-Bocuse in Tokyo) executes a very French repertoire twice a day! The night we went, the Japanese chef crafted a beautiful ode to autumn on the plates, while in the dining room, his wife Akiko showed off some beautiful sea urchins… For the appetizer, three beautiful specimens over a cushy bed of seaweed, a carrot cream and a shellfish jelly (€19); followed by some orgasmic breaded and pan-fried veal sweetbreads, paired with a lovely side of sautéed oyster mushrooms, puréed eggplant and a périgourdine sauce – veal stock, black truffles, Madera, Cognac and port (€33); followed closely with a fresh black sesame blancmange with quartered strawberries and a milk mousseline (€8). To drink, there are some wines that only dummies would leave unopened: a lively Patrimonio from Antoine Arena (€8.50 a glass), a Rully-premier-cru white from Paul and Marie Jacqueson (€9.50), and a curative Mercurey from the Domaine François Raquillet (€45 a bottle)… Set menus €21-27 (lunch), à la carte €52-71. // G.D.