At this modest bistro in the confines of East Paris, Eiji Doihara (who trained under Bocuse in Tokyo) elevates French cuisine with his masterful Japanese touch. Included in the lunch menu for only €27: green beans sliced into little pieces, bathed in a powerful broth with shredded cured ham and a soft-boiled egg; extremely fresh bass fillets, zucchini, eggplant and shellfish with an extra fragrant pistou sauce; and an exotic fruit salad (pineapple, mango…) bathed in a barely sweetened syrup, with homemade raspberry sorbet and a sprinkling of crushed pink peppercorns. At night, the chef doubles down: a very graphic marinated razor clam salad with spring vegetables and rhubarb jam, pan-fried veal sweetbreads with an onion cream and a morel mushroom sauce, an orange-infused baba au rhum…. And to drink? There are eight wines served by the glass (bravo!), including a smooth Aligoté from the Domaine Bzikot (€7) and a deep Maranges from the Domaine Chevrot (€12), plus a few wisely chosen bottles: Rully from Jacqueson (€36), Côtes-du-Rhône from the Domaine Ogier (€32), etc. Set menu and lunch menu €21 and €27. À la carte €51-63. // G.D.